Bite Club | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice
Wednesday, March 25, 2020

Posted By on Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:32 PM

click to enlarge Vermont Foodbank and Others Get the Food Out to Those In Need
Courtesy of Vermont Foodbank
VeggieVanGo distributes produce in Winooski
Last week in Winooski, a Vermont Foodbank mobile produce distribution program called VeggieVanGo provided food to 647 families. Typically, the program  serves about 400 families at that site, said John Sayles, CEO of the Vermont Foodbank.

His organization witnessed a similar phenomenon in St. Johnsbury, where the number of families seeking food at the local VeggieVanGo doubled from 200 families to 400, Sayles said.

With portions of the local economy shutting down due to the spread of the coronavirus, the need for food is on the rise in Vermont, he said.

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Tuesday, March 24, 2020

Posted By on Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 4:03 PM

click to enlarge So Much Goodness to Go in the World
Courtesy of Pablo Durana
Alex Honnold and Conrad Anker with Good To-Go dehydrated meals
On Friday, Good To-Go’s customer service team received emails from hungry Vermonters wondering when their takeout orders would arrive at their doors. A few senders, apparently, mistakenly contacted the  food company in Kittery, Maine, instead of Good To-Go Vermont, Seven Days’ new online directory of local takeout options for the coronavirus era.

Those who browse Good To-Go Vermont will find listings for Green Mountain State eateries offering takeout, delivery and curbside pick-up while restaurants remain closed to in-person diners in an effort to slow the spread of COVID-19. Folks can search by town and region to find establishments serving up everything from pizza to sushi to alcoholic beverages for takeaway.

Visitors at the Maine-based company’s website, goodto-go.com, find a different type of offering: dehydrated meals made from high-quality ingredients.
“Our target audience really is outdoor people,” said Good To-Go cofounder David Koorits in a phone interview. “People who are traveling or adventuring who need a quick and easy meal on the go.”

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Friday, March 20, 2020

Posted By on Fri, Mar 20, 2020 at 8:10 PM

Chamber of Commerce Urges State Action to Help Restaurants
File: Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
Canteen Creemee Company chef-owner Charlie Menard with a fried chicken box
Updated, March 23, 2020

On Thursday, Vermont Chamber of Commerce president Betsy Bishop sent a letter to Gov. Phil Scott urging  further action to support restaurants during the COVID-19 pandemic.

The letter requests the immediate abatement of the February and March meals and rooms tax payments, the February installment of which is due on March 25. It also requests freezing the unemployment insurance experience rating for restaurants, extending the state tax filing deadline by 90 days, as well as the appropriation of an extra $2 million in tourism advertising to draw visitors to Vermont in the future.

The governor's office declined to comment to Seven Days on the Chamber's requests, stating it would respond directly to Bishop.

The Chamber of Commerce is the only restaurant association in Vermont, representing more than 330 establishments. In the letter, Bishop wrote, "We are very concerned about the economic impact the closure of these businesses will have on our rural communities and downtowns." 

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Posted By on Fri, Mar 20, 2020 at 3:15 PM

click to enlarge New Hannaford to Open Saturday
Sally Pollak
The new Hannaford in South Burlington
The Hannaford supermarket on Hannaford Drive in South Burlington that closes on Friday at 9 p.m. is separated by three tenths of a mile and countless rolls of toilet paper from the one that will open on Saturday morning at 935 Shelburne Road.

The new store’s opening celebration is canceled — no giveaways, no samples — to comply with public health guidelines for COVID-19.  The fully stocked supermarket will open without fanfare on Saturday, March 21, at 7  a.m.  No festivities, that is, unless  shelves of Charmin, Scott and Quilted Northern Ultra Soft & Strong are cause for celebration. The toilet paper aisle and its competitor in the new world order of necessities — the cleaning supply section — are both fully stocked.

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Wednesday, March 18, 2020

Posted By on Wed, Mar 18, 2020 at 8:07 PM


click to enlarge Restaurants Rescued Me When I Was Down
Glenn Russell
Sally Pollak drinking a beer at Zero Gravity in the winter of 2017
A week ago, I texted a relative who’s a student at Middlebury College: “When all else fails, we can eat!” Lucy texted back a heart.

We made plans to meet at the Arcadian, an Italian restaurant alongside Otter Creek, with four of her college friends and another cousin — seven people in all. The students had been told to leave school in a matter of days because of the threat of COVID-19. We wanted one more hangout.

By text, we called the last-minute meal — where we drank Negronis on tap and shared plates of pasta — a “midd blowout.”

Forty-eight hours later, on Friday, March 13, we wouldn’t have made such a plan or eaten together.

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Tuesday, March 17, 2020

Posted By on Tue, Mar 17, 2020 at 5:31 PM

Vermont Restaurants Good To-Go Amidst Coronavirus Challenges
Courtesy of Heritage Radio Network
A social media campaign started by food podcast nonprofit Heritage Radio Network
Restaurants and food businesses throughout Vermont have been doing their best to adapt to the fast-changing reality of life during a pandemic.

On Monday, Gov. Phil Scott ordered the closure of Vermont bars and in-person dining at restaurants, effective 2 p.m. on Tuesday, March 17, through at least April 6. 
Burlington Mayor Miro Weinberger announced a 24-hour mandatory closure for Tuesday earlier that day to prevent large gatherings on St. Patrick's Day. These orders are similar to others around the country and the world, aiming to “flatten the curve” of the virus.

It's hard to tell what larger effects COVID-19 will have on our food systems in the long run, especially as many service industry workers lose their jobs, bars shutter and supply chains are disrupted.

The good news is, the governor's order does not ban restaurants from offering food to-go, whether through takeout, curbside pick-up or delivery. Vermont's restaurants are coming up with all kinds of creative ways to feed our communities safely during this crisis. 

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Saturday, March 14, 2020

Posted By on Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 9:30 AM

click to enlarge UVM Economist Sara Solnick on COVID-19, Fear and Consumer Behavior
Courtesy of Frances Solnick
Sara Solnick
Sara Solnick is associate professor and chair of the Department of Economics at the University of Vermont and has expertise in applied microeconomics. Seven Days asked her about the coronavirus and its possible impact on restaurant dining. She replied by email from London, where she's visiting her daughter.

SEVEN DAYS: How does consumer behavior typically change when people are worried or fearful? Is there research that applies specifically to eating out?

SARA SOLNICK: There is research on food safety specifically and dining out, and, as you would expect, people who are worried about food safety or who’ve had a bad experience are less likely to dine out. But in that case, people could avoid specific foods or a particular restaurant. This is a very unusual situation that combines concerns about health and concerns about income, because, for people who are not on salary, their income may be disrupted, and people with investments and retirement accounts have seen the markets drop.

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Friday, March 13, 2020

Posted By on Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 6:10 PM

click to enlarge Vermont Restaurants Scramble to Keep Up With COVID-19
Photo: Luke Awtry
Kortnee Bush and Benjy Adler
At Butch + Babe’s in Burlington's Old North End, the ketchup is now served in individual ramekins, not communal squeeze bottles. In Middlebury, servers at the Arcadian deliver forks on a tray to diners, who pick up the utensils themselves. Hen of the Wood is offering its food to go.

These measures — and rigorous, repeated cleanings — are among the practices that Vermont restaurants are instituting to help protect staff and customers from the coronavirus and to assuage anxiety as the global pandemic makes its emergence in the state.

Local restaurants are announcing their cleaning routines online, along with messages about the importance of confronting the public health threat as a community.

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Thursday, March 12, 2020

Posted By on Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 6:26 PM

click to enlarge New Local Ownership Group, the 'Riot Squad,' to Buy ArtsRiot
Jordan Barry
The Riot Squad, from left: Matt Farkas, Christie Farkas, Matt Small, Jacob Shane, Sam Tolstoi
After nearly two months of rumors swirling around the future of ArtsRiot, a sale of the business is in process. A new ownership group will take over the South End Burlington restaurant, music club and event space at 400 Pine Street, pending final permit approval.

The new ownership group, called the Riot Squad, is made up of current Vermont bar, restaurant and food business owners. It consists of equal partners Jacob Shane, owner of Deli 126; Sam Tolstoi and Matt Small, co-owners of Manhattan Pizza & Pub; and Christie and Matt Farkas, owners of Christie's Gone Bananas.

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Posted By on Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 3:58 PM

click to enlarge Dining on a Dime: St. Paul Street Gastrogrub
Jordan Barry
Dry-rubbed chicken wings and fries at St. Paul Street Gastrogrub
It's normal for me to get a restaurant recommendation along the lines of, "You have to go there for the chicken."

Less normal: "There's an actual, real-live chicken who has taken up residence on the restaurant's patio."

Last weekend, St. Paul Street Gastrogrub in Burlington had both. The tiny, neighborhood spot bridging downtown and the South End always has wings and a popular chicken sandwich to round out its local beer offerings and other creative pub food. But for three glorious days, the corner pub also had its very own poultry ambassador roosting out front.

Gastrogrub staff first noticed their new mascot on Friday, March 6. Right away, they posted a plea on social media, asking, "Anyone missing a chicken?"


Dubbing her "Henrietta," the staff kept a close eye on their surprise guest, despite the fact that she hadn't made a reservation.

She was seemingly wary of crossing the road, the staff said, which might be more of a statement about the construction on St. Paul Street than the setup for a classic joke.

Henrietta reportedly wandered away on Friday night, but was back again on Saturday and stayed through Sunday. "It was the most Vermont-y thing," said Brian Gildersleeve, Gastrogrub's prep manager. 

At one point over the weekend, Gildersleeve made Henrietta a nest out of his hoodie and a few clean aprons. "She snuggled into it overnight," he said. The staff applied their excellent customer service to their chicken guest, giving her water, lettuce, leftover cooked rice and a little bit of bread, as a treat.

"It really got us through Sunday," said Gastrogrup barkeep Will Reuss of caring for the bird.

click to enlarge Dining on a Dime: St. Paul Street Gastrogrub
Katie Hodges
From left: Katie Hodges, "Henrietta" and Seth Olson
I first heard of Henrietta's presence on Sunday night, when Seven Days staffer Katie Hodges posted a series of selfies with the chicken to our office-wide Slack channel.

Hodges was on her way to Gastrogrub for dinner before a show at ArtsRiot. "We knew they had good apps and beer," she said. After parking up the street, she noticed the chicken outside.

"The bartender started making jokes about how fresh the chicken was as soon as we sat down," Hodges continued. "From where we were sitting at the bar, she was right under the sign for chicken wings, which was hilarious."

"It made my night," Hodges said. "It's so weird, and so Vermont, especially because everyone was so excited about it,"

By the time I made it to Gastrogrub on Tuesday, "Henrietta," whose real name turned out to be Gladys, was no longer camped outside. It's a happy ending, though — she was reunited with her owner on Monday.

click to enlarge Dining on a Dime: St. Paul Street Gastrogrub
Katie Hodges
"Henrietta" making herself at home on the patio of St. Paul Street Gastrogrub
"Her owner thought she was dead," Gildersleeve explained. "She got in a fight with a raccoon and flew the coop, ending up here."

Gastrogrub staff had called the Green Mountain Animal Defenders, who arranged for the chicken to be adopted to Richmond before her original owners were aware of her three-day bender. After a few phone calls, though, she's back where she belongs.

"They're happy to have her back," Reuss added.

My natural reaction after listening to Gildersleeve and Reuss recount the whole saga was pretty messed up: I ordered the wings.

Gastrogrub wings come in a variety of flavors and spice levels, including maple jalepeño, dry rub, salt-'n'-vin, barbecue, medium or hot. I ordered the dry rub, which came with eight big ol' wings and a choice of ranch or blue cheese ($11).

My questionable ethics aside, they're damn good wings. The rub was packed with flavor and just a hint of spice, making a perfect afternoon snack. Some dry-rubbed wings can be a little too dry for my liking, but I found myself dipping in the ranch simply because I like ranch, not because the wings needed it. 

My coworker, who tagged along in hopes of meeting the chicken, ordered fries ($5 for regular, $8 if you're feeling fancy and want a truffle upgrade). The fries are herb-flecked, skin-on, and my favorite balance of crispy and soft. They're great with the ranch, too.

We both drank low-ABV beers that skewed springy, feeling inspired by the warm weather. I had the tart and light Audrey Two sour from Zero Gravity Craft Brewery, and she went tropical with the toasted coconut and pineapple Little Umbrellas from Four Quarters Brewing.

We were eating around 4 p.m., so it wasn't quite a full meal, but there are plenty of dining-on-a-dime options that are more substantial at Gastrogrub.

I'll go back — chicken or no chicken — to try the fish tacos with black bean and pineapple salsa ($10), pulled pork sandwich ($12), 1/2-pound burger ($12), and yes, the fried-chicken sandwich ($12).

If  all this chicken talk has you considering going meatless, Gastrogrub also has vegan and vegetarian options: a tempting arugula salad ($9), the meat-alternative Beyond Burger ($14) and a Beyond burrito ($15). The "Beyond" options don't quite fit in our $12-or-less parameters. But you'll be several bucks ahead of me in the moral bank, so it might be worth the splurge.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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