Bite Club | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice
Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Posted By on Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 1:46 PM

2176 rue St-Catherine, Montréal, QC, 514-932-7565

It's not an exaggeration to say Korean barbecue is my favorite thing in the world. I have been absolutely obsessive about the grill-it-yourself meat meal since I was a small child. My license plate says 'BULGOGI' — the word for my favorite, thinly sliced, marinated beef.

My life changed for the better a couple of years ago when I discovered the subculture of all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue (AYCEKBBQ) in Los Angeles. Until this weekend, I had yet to find a satisfying Korean barbecue experience in Montréal, let alone an all-you-can-eat version that kicked ass. Then I came across 5000 Ans.

The name of the restaurant refers to the Korean creation myth, in which Dangun Wanggeom asked his heavenly grandfather, Hwanin, to grant him rule over the Asian peninsula. That was roughly 5000 years ago. I would not be surprised if Hwanin had a celestial glimmer in his eye when he pointed me down St-Catherine on Sunday.

For $21 Canadian and change, I was treated to a feast.

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Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Posted By on Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 11:56 AM

1160 Williston Road, South Burlington 802-862-1211

We all know the story — friends who have known each other for a decade suddenly realize it's love. While I've always enjoyed what I've had with Charlie's (still known as Chicken Charlie's to most of us), we recently took it to the next level. And it's serious: I've eaten there three times in the last three weeks.

Why the change? This is going to sound stupid, but even though the place specializes in rotisserie chicken, I had never ordered it. A few weeks ago, that changed. I had an intense pollo a la brasa craving, and though I knew I couldn't get the Peruvian bird in Burlington, I figured Charlie's would be the next best thing. It easily surpassed my expectations.

The half chicken that I tried was juicy inside, but it was the crisp, fantastically seasoned skin that made the dish. I don't usually go crazy for the taste of unadorned poultry, preferring it as a vessel for sauces. Not this one. Though it's great dipped in a little bit of the sweet and slightly creamy-tasting housemade balsamic vinaigrette I put on my salad, anything else simply overwhelms the delicious natural flavor.

I like to forgo the coleslaw and starch (and the tomato-soup-like concoction called "Charlie's Gravy") in favor of a big, fresh salad, with a tub of the aforementioned balsamic dressing on the side. No brown fast food lettuce here — everything is fresh and flavorful. Even the tomatoes, so often tasteless even at high-end restaurants, have a strong, properly tomato-y flavor.

Last night, I was really hungry, and decided to spring for ribs with my chicken. According to the menu, I was getting four meaty baby back bones with my quarter chicken for $13.49. It turned out to be six-and-a-half bones, which would probably cost $13.49 on their own most places. They were tender inside with a light layer of crisp char outside, and once again, surpassed my expectations. The tomato-based, sweet-and-tangy sauce brushed on them was nice, too.

My feelings have also been sparked anew by the jumbo tenders. Most really flavorful fried chicken is speckled with herbs and pepper. Not at Charlie's, where the light breading is a pure amber color. I don't know why the meat tastes so great, but I suspect a brine. Whatever the answer, the things are addictive. No matter how many I get I want more, and once again, I think they taste better without sauce. It must be love.

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Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Posted By on Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 12:37 PM

106 West Street, Rutland, 802-786-8080

I've written a fair amount about the rich history of ethnic food in Rutland: The city has had a Chinese restaurant for more than 70 years, and Vermont's first pizza was served in Rutland in 1949. Last weekend's Ethnic Food Festival included dishes with roots in the Republic of the Congo and Korea — rare commodities in the Green Mountains, even in this day and age.

I couldn't make it to the festivities, but after an awesome afternoon at Wilson Castle in Proctor, I figured a good meal in nearby Rutland would be the icing on the cake. The menu at Tokyo House was promising. A range of noodle soups from nabeyaki udon to sukiyaki shared menu space with sushi dishes, including one simply called "peanut roll."

The sushi I saw looked promising, but I was starving after walking the castle's historic halls and wanted something more substantial. I started with an appetizer of chicken and vegetable tempura. At first glance, the tiny shards clinging to the chicken looked like panko, but it was indeed a very fine, supremely airy batter. The meat, as well as zucchini, eggplant and yam slices were cooked to optimal doneness, and paired perfectly with the warm soy-based dipping sauce.

Things went downhill from there.

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Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Posted By on Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 1:54 PM

Sorry, there's no hot new restaurant so exclusive that it only serves on Saturday and Sunday. The past few days have simply been so food-filled, I thought it would be fun to share how one food writer's life goes when the living is easy and the produce is high.

My weekend started with an invitation to the latest in NECI's series of Slow Food benefit dinners. Executive Chef Tom Bivins thought it would be funny to see a meat-obsessed gal like me at the vegan dinner prepared by his students. It began with a "raw bar" featuring several samples of pickled perfection: garlic scapes, carrots and even finely sliced watermelon. And there was toast spread with herb pesto and topped with mint "caviar."

Five students were responsible for conceptualizing one course each. Highlights included a robustly spiced tomatillo soup with vegan sour cream, and a peach-and-raspberry melba on a tea cracker with almond-milk-based sweet tea ice cream.

The next day, I more than made up for my meat-free evening at the Harpoon Championships of New England Barbecue. My first stop was at I Que's booth, where John Delpha — chef at The Belted Cow Bistro — and his team were selling heavy paper containers of sweet, meaty ribs, plus cha siu pork over sesame-redolent fried rice. I Que's main competition for the honor of being the highest ranking barbecue team in the northeast is Massachusetts-based I Smell Smoke.

I can honestly say, without bias, that I did not. I had a bite of I Smell Smoke's pulled pork sandwich and threw it away: It was mushy, smoke-free and under seasoned. I was a fan of their 'Poon dog, however. The beer brat dipped in beer batter and fried had every bit of flavor the pork was lacking.

A Burlington-based team ran away with the New England Barbecue Society's prize for Rookie of the Year. Eric Gray of Sweet Breathe BBQ admits that he forgot the ingredients for his glaze, but still managed to place fourth overall in the chicken category. I didn't get to try his wings, but his tender ribs were brushed with a unique maple-and-ginger sauce. Overall, the BBQ fest was not what it's cracked up to be. In 95-degree heat, my head was pounding too much to put down all the pork I wanted to.

That evening, some friends and I stopped at Patchwork Farm in East Hardwick for a pizza party. Though the farm is not open to the public, the Emers family sells its creative loaves, bagels, bialys and foccacia all over the Northeast Kingdom. Baker Charlie Emers is considering opening a shop in downtown Hardwick, and I hope he does. The meal started with tart homemade lemonade and a farm-fresh salad, featuring some of the sweetest tomatoes I've ever tasted. Charlie then presented pie after pie from his wood-burning oven. My favorites were the tomato-basil, and one covered in zucchini and lots of fresh mozzarella. I brought home a luscious blue-cheese-and-walnut loaf for later.

The next day, after seeing South Pacific at the Hyde Park Opera House, I wandered across the street for high tea. That's right: On Thursday and Sunday afternoons, an inn called The Governor's House serves a delicious house blend of black tea with all the trimmings. Since I dropped in without notice, I missed the impressive line-up of tea cakes, but was still treated to an ample sampling of ladylike delights. There were delicious curried chicken and cucumber sandwiches, with crusts cut off, naturally. The proprietor also took time to make two different types of scones: a melt-in-the-mouth cranberry and chocolate version, and plain, buttery and flaky ones best blobbed with jam and clotted cream.

Yesterday, I hit my first Vermont Fresh Network dinner of the year at Ariel's in Brookfield. The hour-long drive was easily worth it. The meal began with a cube of pork belly sitting on a slice of pickled watermelon. A straight line of crackling was laid diagonally across the meat like a piece of modern architecture, and it all sat in a delicate pool of mint vinaigrette. Other courses included a deconstructed pork posole — which perfectly captured the flavors of the Mexican stew — and a crowd-pleasing chicken confit over grits and garlic jus. The crisp, salty skin would have been a worthy meal on its own. My weekend of gluttony ended with a trio of berry desserts: sweet sorbet with wild raspberries and blackberries, blackberry clafoutis and ideally balanced blueberry crisp.

Here's the best part of my foodie weekend: Except for the visit to Patchwork Farm, I didn't do anything you can't. There's still plenty of summer fun to be had. My advice is to try a Fresh Network dinner, hit a festival and dine with friends whenever you can!

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Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Posted By on Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 12:42 PM

2545 Shelburne Road, Shelburne 802-985-5009

Two weeks after opening, 7 Nights reviewers have written six reviews of Shelburne Steakhouse. The diners were all eager for a return to Sirloin Saloon form in the space previously occupied by the lost classic. Critiques ranged from one star to five. I had to see for myself.

My server was clearly new  — and nervous. After taking my order, he had to return more than once with a question about something he forgot. When I had questions, he didn't have all the answers, but was eager to please and quickly found out what I wanted to know.

Having already seen the menu online sans prices, I was expecting to pay $20 or more for entrées. I was surprised to see that tenderloin medallions cost only $16. Dinners, with unlimited visits to the salad bar, mostly cost right around that amount.

Though the salad bar is not as large as it was at the Sirloin Saloon, I filled a plate and still regretted missing several items. There were all the basic veggies, plus sweet, grilled squash and zucchini, sesame noodles and bacon-speckled potato salad. The best part: Homemade honey-chile vinaigrette, with a wonderful balance of tangy, earthy and sweet, in which I ended up dipping my bread once the salad was gone.

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Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 11:50 AM

82 Lower Main Street, Morrisville 888-7889

Ask anyone where to find good food in Morrisville and they will tell you The Bee's Knees is the place. When I spent this past Sunday in Hyde Park, I did consider heading to the Stonegrill Restaurant & Pub, (You cook your meat yourself! On a hot stone!) but was lured to the Bee's Knees by the siren song of chicken and goat cheese pot pie.

You heard me right. As if chicken pot pie weren't already luscious enough, chef Jeff Egan adds Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery chèvre to the already creamy sauce. I have salivated over that dish for years, and was not disappointed. I usually expect a conventional pie crust or puff pastry on my pot pies. This bowl of stew was topped with a buttery biscuit. Inside, free range Misty Knoll chicken practically melted, along with lightly tangy artichokes, which perfectly matched the character of the sauce. Caramelized onions and small leaves of fresh spinach gave the concoction further character, though it certainly didn't need more flavor.

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Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Posted By on Tue, Jul 6, 2010 at 2:11 PM

237 North Winooski Avenue, Burlington 658-3668

I didn't think I'd have to do this, but apparently I do: There are people out there who still don't know about QTee's. Whenever I explain where 99 Asian Market is — right across the street from QTee's — it seems people don't know what I'm talking about. "Where Dairy Queen was," I clarify. Then they understand, but it hasn't been Dairy Queen for years. The inevitable next question: "Is it still good?"

As far as Burlington-area fast food goes, it's among the best. Each month I take a picture of QTee's rotating creemee-flavor schedule and follow it religiously. They always have chocolate and vanilla, but other flavors, from orange to Kahlua, appear in two-day spurts. I like to show up on mint and pistachio days. I've yet to make it over for blueberry, but it's on my calendar — literally.

First things first, though. Pre-creemee, I recommend stopping inside for something savory. I just discovered the Roadhouse burger: two patties with cheese, bacon, barbecue sauce and an onion ring. It sounds simple but it's sublime, with just the right mix of salt, sweetness and crunch.

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Friday, July 2, 2010

Posted By on Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 2:46 PM

7 Bakery Lane, Middlebury, 388-4182

I dig controversy. As soon as it was added to 7 Nights, Jackson's caused a minor stir with three comments in the space of about an hour. Two were positive, one very negative. I knew I had to see for myself.

I had never been to Tully and Marie's or Woody's, the restaurants that filled the Bakery Lane location in Middlebury for as long as I've been in the state. The location can't be beat, with waterfront views from every table. Diners can choose to look at Otter Creek from outside, or from one of three indoor levels. The interior is painted bright yellow and decorated with black and white photos of farm animals. You can't help but feel happy in there.


A matching chowder of the day helped, too. The corn and bacon potage got its extra-vivid color from the addition of carrots. Though the soup was creamy, the flavor was unmitigated corn. The vegetable was present both blended into the broth and in floating chunks. The taste was so intense, bacon was — gasp — an afterthought. That said, the soup would have been even better with a bit more salt.

  Appetizers and entrées are evenly split between vegetarian and meat dishes. My party tried one of each. A pair of smoky poblano peppers were each stuffed with a different filling. One held a Southwestern-style Thanksgiving stuffing — bread based, but filled with savory black beans; the other had chèvre, jack cheese and toasted pine nuts. Both sizable peppers were topped with fresh salsa and placed on a sea of black beans. Once again, the beans would have benefited from a heavier hand with the seasonings.

I never turn down schnitzel. I had no choice but to order the pork one at Jackson's. A gigantic, thinly pounded tenderloin arrived on my plate pan-fried and lightly drizzled with creamy wild mushroom sauce. The fungi themselves were finely chopped but flavorful. The meat lay on a bed of mashed potatoes, which were subtly creamy. The vegetable of the day was a collection of cauliflower, broccoli and carrots. Though they added satisfying color to the plate, the under-seasoned veggies would have been improved by more of the brandy-spiked mushroom sauce for dipping.

  Despite any minor shortcomings, the food at Jackson's was filling enough that I didn't spring for dessert. If I had, I would have chosen banana tres leches cake, for sure. Instead, I distracted my sweet tooth with a trip to the bathroom before leaving. A pot of piña colada-scented potpourri made it a pleasure. Points to Jackson's for winning the title of best-smelling bathroom in Vermont from me.

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Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Another weekend, another Vermont food and wine fest

Posted By on Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 9:20 AM

The past couple of weeks have been good to local oenophiles. Last weekend saw the inaugural Burlington Wine & Food Festival — put on by the Vermont Wine Merchants Company — replace the defunct Green Mountain Chew Chew Festival in a plum spot on the waterfront. The previous weekend, well-heeled aficionados headed to Trapp Family Lodge for the 12th annual Stowe Wine & Food Classic. A benefit for Copley Hospital in Morrisville, the event consists of three days of drinking and dining, culminating in a “grand tasting and silent auction” on Sunday.

Having attended both the waterfront festival and the grand tasting, I’m struck by two things. The first is the number of people willing to shell out for pleasure, and for charity, with the economy in the nascent stages of clawing its way back to normal. The second is just how different the two events — both celebrating great food and fine wine — managed to be.

Take the locales, for starters. Attendees reached the Trapp Family Lodge via a long drive on mountainous roads. (Food writer Alice Levitt claims she’s witnessed more than one middle-aged woman, overcome by the glorious view, fling out her arms and burst into strains of The Sound of Music.) Once there, guests found vintners and restaurateurs mingling inside an airy tent in which one could easily snag a bite and find a sip to go with it. A band with a singer performed slinky jazz standards. It was all very genteel.

There was a different energy on the Burlington Waterfront last Saturday. Despite heavy rain, nearly 1000 people wandered down Depot and College streets to soak up the goods during the day’s second tasting session, from 4 to 8 p.m. Inside a darkened tent smelling pleasantly of damp earth, a band rocked out onstage while people in casual dress lined up to sample a few of the 200-plus wines.

Although you could get Vermont artisan breads and cheeses in this main tent, you had to visit a separate section outside for main dishes from area restaurants. Other purveyors, such as those for Ben & Jerry’s and Stonyfield yogurt, camped out around the venue’s edge.

The whole area was loud, fun and bustling. Inside the big tent, a few people danced, and some couples, apparently overcome by the wine, got hot and heavy.

The difference in crowds and vibes is explained partly by location and partly by price. The Burlington festival cost $40 per person, while Stowe’s ran $60. But that bought unlimited samples, while B-town’s cheaper cover actually purchased 15 drink tickets and just one food token (more could be had for $1 and $5, respectively).

That meant digging around for tickets while balancing a wine glass and a plate of food, and, in my case, spending an extra $20 to try more of the fare. Worse, I agonized over each pour, hoping I’d happened on the most complex cabernet or the sexiest syrah.

In Stowe, by contrast, I pinged carefree from table to table, trying three Rieslings here, going back for seconds of the Three Penny Taproom’s housemade chorizo there. Small plates were the order of the day. Michael’s on the Hill had small cups of chilled smoked-trout vichyssoise, Hen of the Wood offered crispy pork-cheek croquettes, and Ariel’s Restaurant wowed us with a fluffy goat-cheese soufflé. I couldn’t stay away from the pork cracklings made at southern Vermont’s Verdé.

Burlington offered fewer food options, but each one was nearly a meal unto itself. I spent my first token for L’Amante’s perfectly cooked rib-eye and giant prawn with white bean and arugula salad. Then I followed the scent of smoke to The Belted Cow Bistro table, where I was rewarded with a shaved pork and broccoli rabe sandwich topped with a sprinkling of Parmesan. Healthy Living’s plump, homemade chicken sausage with curried slaw packed tons of flavor. I honestly can’t say which festival’s food I preferred.

Everything else may have been worlds apart, but the events shared celebrity flair. Stowe boasted famed winemakers Bruce Neyers of Neyers Vineyards in St. Helena, Calif., and David O’Reilly of Owen Roe Winery in Oregon’s Yakima Valley, plus a cooking demo from Yankee Magazine’s Annie Copps in a perfectly outfitted traveling kitchen. The Queen City fest’s crown jewel was figure-skater-turned-winemaker Peggy Fleming and her husband, Greg Jenkins, who own Fleming Jenkins Vineyards & Winery in Los Gatos, Calif.

Some diners might prefer the fashionable ease of the Stowe Food & Wine Classic, others the lively scene on Burlington’s waterfront. Me? I’ll take ’em both.

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Monday, June 28, 2010

Posted By on Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 3:35 PM

1007 boulevard St-Laurent, Montréal, Québec 514-940-3668

Think "ramen" means dehydrated bachelor food? Try experiencing the real deal at one of the new ramen restaurants north of the Canadian border.

Just a few months after Ramen-ya opened in Montréal's Chinatown, Sumo Ramen followed. The restaurant doesn't serve chanko, the protein-rich soup enjoyed in massive quantities by sumo wrestlers, but these are hearty meals nonetheless.

At Sumo Ramen, there are two soup bases available — shōyu and miso. The shōyu is about what one would expect of ramen broth: savory and salty, but not much else. The miso broth is slightly thicker and tastes as much like sesame as bean curd.

The standard bowl comes filled with two kinds of seaweed, bean sprouts, corn, half a hard-boiled egg and a blob of butter in the middle. From there, diners can choose versions with kimchi, leeks or even wontons. Of course, there are noodles too, delightfully elastic ones.

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