Farms and Agriculture | Bite Club | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Bite Club

Friday, January 26, 2018

Posted By on Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 6:45 PM

click to enlarge USDA Again Suspends Slaughter Operation at Vermont Packinghouse
File: Melissa Pasanen
Kacey Knight working at Vermont Packinghouse in North Springfield
Federal regulators temporarily shut down the animal slaughter operation at Vermont Packinghouse in North Springfield on Monday, according to a statement from the facility.

An on-site U.S. Department of Agriculture inspector flagged the facility for the "mis-stun" of a sheep. Animals are stunned before they are slaughtered.

"This caused the animal to suffer momentarily before another stun could be properly administered," said the statement from Arion Thiboumery, general manager of Vermont Packinghouse. During the one-day suspension, other aspects of the business — including meat packing and processing — remained in operation, according to Thiboumery.

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Wednesday, October 18, 2017

Posted By on Wed, Oct 18, 2017 at 3:49 PM

click to enlarge Vermont's Top Cow Is a Flatlander
COURTESY of SHARYN ABBOTT
Blexy, Supreme Champion of the World Dairy Expo
Beer and cheese made in Vermont have earned best-in-the-world accolades. Now another product with Vermont ties — mightier (or at least heavier) than a bottle of beer or a wedge of cheese —  has won top honors.

Blexy, an 1,800-pound Holstein,  was named Supreme Champion at the
World Dairy Expo on October 7 in Madison, Wisc.  She bested about 2,300 animals to win the prize.

Blexy's co-owners, Sharyn and Tim Abbott, live in Enosburg and operate a dairy farm and cattle breeding business in Richford, Borderview Genetics.

Tags: , , , , , ,

Monday, August 7, 2017

Posted By on Mon, Aug 7, 2017 at 4:01 PM

click to enlarge The Big Feed at Shelburne Farms: Vermont Fresh Network Dinner
Sophie X. Pollak
Vermont Fresh Network fundraiser at Shelburne Farms
The Vermont Fresh Network held its annual gala last Sunday evening at Shelburne Farms.  The occasion is billed as a "forum," but it's perhaps better described as a mass feeding.

About 400 people attended the sold-out fundraiser for the VFN — a statewide nonprofit that connects food producers and restaurateurs, and works to strengthen partnership between the groups. The network's membership includes 113 chefs and 140 farmers/food producers.

Sunday night at the Coach Barn, farmer-chef connections were on display in a delicious and creative array of mini-meals, from  complex (smoked beef with pickled blueberries and radishes, garlic-chili aioli, basil and mint) to simple (ham and butter on baguette).

To honor the event, we recognize seven contributions:

Tags: , , , , , ,

Thursday, March 30, 2017

Posted By on Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 9:06 PM

click to enlarge Land O'Lakes Buys Vermont Creamery: 10 Questions for Allison Hooper
Courtesy of Vermont Creamery
Cultured butter from Vermont Creamery
On Wednesday afternoon, March 29, news circulated through the Vermont fooderati that Vermont Creamery had been sold to Minnesota cheese-and-butter giant Land O'Lakes for an undisclosed sum (yes, we asked how much, to no avail).

Allison Hooper and Bob Reese cofounded Vermont Butter & Cheese Company from a barn in Brookfield in 1984. Thirty-three years later the business, which changed its name to Vermont Creamery in 2013, brings in tens of millions of dollars annually and employs about 100 Vermonters full time.

While representatives from the creamery and from Land O'Lakes have been forthcoming since news of the sale broke yesterday, many Vermonters were left wondering what it would all mean. Would the company stay in Vermont? What would happen to current employees, and to the farmers from whom the creamery buys milk? Would the chèvre, cultured butter and soft-ripened cheeses be different now?

Tags: , , , , ,

Thursday, December 15, 2016

Posted By on Thu, Dec 15, 2016 at 3:58 PM

click to enlarge New Location, Same Great Vibe at the Burlington Winter Farmers Market
Suzanne Podhaizer
Burllington Farmers Market purchases
When I learned that the Burlington Winter Farmers Market would be moving from the condemned Memorial Auditorium in downtown Burlington to the University of Vermont's Dudley H. Davis Center, I was skeptical that the new location would have the right vibe. My first visit to the market in its new location proved me wrong.

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Monday, October 17, 2016

Posted By on Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 1:30 PM

click to enlarge Reinhart Foodservice to Purchase Black River Produce
Courtesy of Oliver Parini
Black River Produce founders Steve Birge and Mark Curran with President Sean Buchanan
 In the words of company president Sean Buchanan, Springfield's Black River Produce "started with a handful of cash and a dream." The food distributor was founded  38 years ago by Steve Birge and Mark Curran, who described themselves as "ski bums." 

Since then, BRP has operated as an independent entity — until now. On October 24, the company will be purchased by Illinois- and Wisconsin-based Reinhart Foodservice, the fourth largest food-service distributor in the country. Staff was informed of the change on Friday. 

Tags: , , , , ,

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Posted By on Sat, Sep 24, 2016 at 8:00 AM

click to enlarge New Americans Join in Shelburne Grape Harvest
Kymelya Sari
Duk Luitel harvesting grapes
"I love summer jobs," Duk Luitel told me as she paused from clipping clusters of grapes on the vines surrounding Shelburne Vineyard. It feels good to be working outdoors, she explained. After all, the 41-year-old Winooski resident was a farmer in her native Bhutan.

Luitel is among a group of about 30 people, most of them from the Bhutanese community, who have been picking grapes at the vineyard since the harvest season started earlier this month. A smaller number of Congolese are also pitching in at the vineyard on Route 7.

For the past three years, co-owner Kenneth Albert has depended on his personal connection with a Bhutanese individual to recruit grape pickers from that community. "They are more reliable," he said. "Local residents [are] doing it as more of a recreation."

Tags: , , , , ,

Thursday, June 2, 2016

Posted By on Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 8:00 PM

click to enlarge Chef, Farmer, Eater: More Talk With Food Writer Ruth Reichl
Courtesy of Beana Bern
Ruth Reichl co-teaching at Sterling College

This week’s issue of Seven Days features an interview with renowned food writer Ruth Reichl. Last week, I met Reichl at Sterling College in Craftsbury Common, where she spent three days co-teaching a summer course called “Food Writing From the Farm” at the college’s School of the New American Farmstead.

There wasn’t enough space to run the entire interview in print. Here are extended questions and answers from our front-porch conversation on the Sterling College campus:

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Posted By on Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 12:59 PM

1611 Harbor Road, Shelburne, 985-8686

click to enlarge Alice Eats: Farm Cart at Shelburne Farms
My dining companion

Sometimes, you feel like brunch at Shelburne Farms. But that craving can't be satisfied last-minute — reservations are necessary well in advance. And not all of us want to pay $14 for a veggie hash, anyway.


Luckily, there's a lower-cost but equally ultra-local option. In front of the Farm Barn, a food-truck-style set-up known as the Farm Cart offers a menu of sandwiches, salads and soup. And since seating is at gnarled wood picnic tables in an open field, you may be joined for lunch by a chicken or two, as I was. 

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Posted By on Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 11:19 PM

click to enlarge Welch Springs to Cheesemakers' Defense
Cabot clothbound cheese aging in Vermont on wooden boards.

On Saturday, Wisconsin's Cheese Underground blog broke news that the FDA had reinterpreted a food safety law, in effect outlawing the centuries-old practice of aging cheese on wooden boards.

The post unleashed a fury in the nation's artisan cheese community, and food bloggers responded in kind, posting articles with gloom-and-doom headlines such as "FDA May Destroy American Artisan Cheese Industry" (Forbes) and "The FDA’s Misguided War on Bacteria That Make Cheese Taste Good" (Slate).  

If the policy sticks, it could have dire consequences for Vermont's artisan cheese industry, costing small, family-run businesses millions, should they be required to replace wooden aging shelving with stainless steel or another material. 

But Vermont Congressman Peter Welch says in a phone interview with Seven Days that he plans to put the kibosh on the issue before it impacts local creameries. "We've got to stop this dead in its tracks," he says. "The cheesemakers are rightfully alarmed, and the FDA has issued a statement that creates [a lot of] ambiguity and uncertainty. There's just no reason to ban — or to suggest the possibility of banning — wood boards on which to age cheese." 

Welch calls the policy "a catastrophic situation in the making ... The reason I say catastrophic is, if you make our artisan cheesemakers get rid of their wood and replace it with stainless steel, [it'll be] enormously expensive." The congressman also foresees consequences extending far beyond the borders of our little state: "This is the mother of all trade wars with Europe. Their cheesemakers use wood [for aging], and they would be prohibited from exporting that cheese to the U.S.,  and then obviously that would create a retaliatory response. So this is the mother of all dumb ideas, and we've gotta stop it." 

Tags: , , , , , , , ,