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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:19 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Tom Cat, Thyme and Tonic
If there's one thing my kitchen garden does really well, it's grow herbs. Like clockwork, thyme blooms around the summer solstice, sending up charming little columns of flowers that seem to last for weeks. To eat, these blooms are somewhat milder than the leaves, tender and sweet, with light tannic notes (thyme is, after all, a woody herb) and a hint of licorice.
In April,
Caledonia Spirits released a limited run of its Barr Hill Reserve Tom Cat gin, which was aged in Vermont white oak barrels made by a cooper outside of Plattsburgh. On my way through Hardwick earlier this month, I stopped at the distillery and snapped up a bottle. It's a sipping gin — golden in color, smooth and honey-sweet with herbal, woody and nut-brown flavors that you can unpack for hours.
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 2:17 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Radish greens!
Radishes are a book-end vegetable, one of the first freshies of spring, and one of the last veggies standing come fall. I love the crunchy little roots served fresh or in salad, and they're fab
on the grill or
sautéed. And don't get me started on the greens, which make a
fine pesto base or spinach substitute.
I planted some in mid-April (
remember how it snowed just a few weeks ago?), and expected to harvest them this week and next. But following several 80-degree days and Sunday's rain, they bolted yesterday afternoon. I saved a few, but mostly I got a sink full of greens, since the plants had converted their bulbous roots into flower stalks in a single day.
This morning, I took a bunch of those greens and cooked them into a fluffy, frothy frittata with fresh herbs, asparagus from
4 Corners Farm and a handful of cow's milk "feta" from
Neighborly Farms, over in Randolph.
And life was grand...
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, May 31, 2016 at 3:22 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Oyster mushrooms and chicken of the woods
After a cool spring, summer mushroom season is finally here. I've been too busy to hit the trail myself, but if my Instagram feed is any indication, it's been a bumper year for morels. Last weekend, a friend of mine stopped at his usual morel spot on his way home. It was devoid of morels, but he did find a huge cluster of chicken of the woods, and grabbed enough to share. Lucky me!
Last night, I bathed the fungi (along with some oyster mushrooms my mom brought over) in a slap-dash marinade for 15 minutes, then passed them off to the grill man, who charred them briefly for a sumptuous supper side.
My marinade was simple — a splash of olive oil, a bigger splash of beer (I was drinking an IPA from
Harpoon Brewery, but anything with some flavor — white wine, rosé or cider — would work), and a little salt and garlic. Also, this would work with other types of mushrooms, so you could use a portobello or even some big button mushrooms, if you're not into or can't get the wild stuff.
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, May 24, 2016 at 1:53 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Dandelions: Eat 'em if you got 'em.
After high school, I took a year off before heading to college. I spent most of that time screwing around in the Northeast Kingdom and working for the
Appalachian Mountain Club, deep in the White Mountains. But in spring 2002, I flew to Europe. I traveled and worked on farms, mostly in Italy.
There, life on the road — and, of course, the old Italian farmers and
WWOOF-er weirdos I lived with — taught 18-year-old me a few things about eating and cooking.
First: The best meals often consist of sturdy bread, handmade cheese and charcuterie or fresh pesto. Second: When cooking, most dishes require just a couple quality ingredients — and a bit of salt. Combine them with care and don't fuss about it too much!
In the spirit of all that, here's an ultra-simple, eat-the-weeds dandelion pesto, made with a little
Bayley-Hazen blue cheese from Jasper Hill Farm, which I grabbed at
Hand Crafters Hub on my way home from
Hill Farmstead Brewery last week.
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, May 17, 2016 at 2:48 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
What could be springier than a rhubarb cocktail, sipped in the grass?
I don't often feature recipes that require special equipment, but I recently acquired a juicer. I'd given it to my mom for Christmas, but she gave it back — she's perfectly happy with her smoothie bullet, thank you very much.
And last weekend, I picked up some beautiful rhubarb and greenhouse cucumbers at
4 Corners Farm in Newbury. I had grand plans of making tiny rhubarb galettes, which I'd eat for breakfast, lunch and dinner for the rest of the week. Tart rhubarb pie is one of my most highly anticipated spring joys.
But the motivation to make pie crust eluded me. Plus, this shiny new machine was staring me down from inside its box on the kitchen floor.
So I juiced the rhubarb with a cucumber, which made enough juice for two or three cocktails. A pour of Honeycrisp ice cider from
Champlain Orchards sweetened the deal, while a shot of barrel-aged gin from
Stonecutter Spirits (which nabbed a double-gold medal at the
San Francisco World Spirits Competition in April) gave it a boozy kick.
The gin's herby botanicals add an extra layer of fab to this drink, but really, any well-made gin (perhaps
Caledonia Spirits' just-released
Tom Cat gin, aged in Vermont-oak barrels) or whatever you've got in your cabinet will do.
And, please, take this drink outside — it's basically spring in a glass.
Ingredients:
5-6 stalks rhubarb
1 small cucumber
2 ounces ice cider
2 ounces gin
1-2 teaspoons maple syrup
Splash club soda
Splash Bonal Gentiane Quina
1-2 drops Citrus bitters
Preparation:
Juice the produce first and allow to settle. Pour ice cider, gin and maple syrup into a large glass and stir thoroughly. Fill glass with ice, stir again, and add juice until the liquid is about 1 inch from the top. Agitate with a spoon to mix the juice and booze slightly, then top off with club soda. Float Bonal on top and spritz with bitters. Garnish with fresh flowers or herbs or orange peel.
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, May 10, 2016 at 4:33 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Solomon's seal shoots
Did you know you can eat
Solomon's seal? I didn't, until last weekend, when I was thumbing through a book on wild edibles. In early spring, it read, the plant's tender young shoots can be collected just before the leaves unfurl and prepared in much the same way as asparagus. In fact, this woodland plant — and common garden perennial — is part of the asparagus family.
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, May 3, 2016 at 1:48 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Winter potatoes, spring herbs
I rather enjoy early spring cooking. Lacking the gorgeous garden-market proliferation of midsummer through fall, May isn't a time for sexy, glamour-bomb food. But, after a winter of tubers, meats and cheeses, warmer days provide welcome variety as soon as the first herbs are ready to harvest. Which, in a greenhouse-driven market, is right about now. And there are plenty of cold-weather roots still kicking around.
I love eating golden-crisp potatoes, roasted in a hot oven with plenty of space around each one, year-round. Today, I tossed some with a touch of
Karim Farm & Creamery's hard Vertalia cheese, fresh dill and a few ramps I
picked a couple weeks ago. I also threw in the last bit of
my first-ever guanciale, now more than a year old...
Also, these little
pommes are easily flexitarian. Vegetarian? Vegan? Hold the meat and cheese and swap olive oil for butter — it's a fine dish even without the animal fats. And it makes fab leftovers. Just pop it in a warm oven to reheat, and you're halfway to a proper dinner.
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 12:50 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Buttermilk-blue toast with spring greens
It's snowing, so let's keep things nice and easy today, eh?
Here's a really quick, reasonably healthy, spring-invoking snack. It's kind of a non-recipe — I haven't prescribed amounts for any ingredient, though I did include an ingredients list. It's all quite flexible.
The idea is simple: toast your bread, douse it in buttermilk and pile on as many wilted greens, fresh herbs and blue cheese as you like. And, of course, eat it.
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 12:35 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Elder-Ginger-Lemon Spritzer
Finally, it's starting to feel like spring outside — my daffodils are starting to bud and perennials are poking out of the ground.
That means it's high time to shift from red wine to white; dark liquor to light; from rich and spicy notes to more floral, fruit-forward flavors.
Here's a light, bright, not-so-boozy cocktail with which to celebrate the season. Made with
Citizen Cider's Dirty Mayor, which has just a touch of ginger, and splashes of brandy and elderflower rum, it's a sparkling, citrusy quaff that won't put you under the table, should you happen to drink more than one.
Cheers!
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Posted
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Hannah Palmer Egan
on Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 3:30 PM
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Hannah Palmer Egan
Fixings for cheddar-ale soup
They say April is the cruelest month. I never really understood what that meant until this year.
After a notably mild winter, I'd hoped that the unusual warm weather would continue through spring, so I could start early on all my big crazy garden projects. But Mother Nature had other plans, as she often does. The ground is still frozen solid, and it's snowed —
or sleeted or ice-rained — for eight of the past 10 days. Suffice to say, things don't seem all that springy.
One bright side to this grim-reaper weather? It's still soup season!
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