Posted
By
Alice Levitt
on Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 12:41 PM
It's no surprise that I'm usually the first in my crowd to know about any new dining spot. But when one pal recently sent me a picture of some fried balls filled with macaroni and cheese, I'd never heard of its source. Turned out, it was Berdas Roadside Eatery, parked at the Essex Family Fun Center, right between the batting cages and mini golf.
Then my girl Jess Wisloski sent me a link to her piece on the place from the
Colchester Sun. When a reader sent me yet another recommendation for Berdas last week, my fate was sealed: It had to be the next Alice Eats.
I liked the old-fashioned branding on the trailer (omitted apostrophe and all), but the food was anything but. Indeed, so much of it was idiosyncratic, it was hard to know if I was making the right choices.
Among the hot dogs, should it be the Whistlepig, deep-fried in a jacket of bacon and drizzled in maple syrup? Or the Jalapeño Dog, grilled and then topped with maple-flavored jalapeños and onions and settled into a bun "that's been loaded with cream cheese?" Yes, I could have just ordered a plain hot dog, but it wouldn't have shown me what Berdas is about.
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Posted
By
Alice Levitt
on Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 12:08 PM
Once upon a time, not so long ago, there was no pho in Montpelier. That changed in a hurry this spring when two Vietnamese restaurants opened.
Pho Capital now fills the historic former Thrush Tavern space on State Street with the smell of fish sauce. Its patio makes it the spot for a relaxed meal of bun and banh xeo. I'll review it soon, but on Friday evening, I was in Montpelier and in a hurry. And there's no better place to go in a hurry than
Pho Thai Express.
The idea is a novel one, not just in Montpelier but in the Green Mountains. This is true fast food, with dishes mostly served in take-out containers.
But that doesn't mean the service felt rushed when I visited. Owner Sam Thongjanthoug had an easy smile and a fatherly air. He seemed a little surprised that my friend and I decided to enjoy our soups in bowls at the restaurant, rather than taking dinner to go.
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Posted
By
Alice Levitt
on Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 11:00 AM
It doesn't take much sophistication to like Thai food. When people hear I'm an Asian cuisine aficionado, it's usually the first thing they ask me about. But despite how easy it is to love the cuisine's balanced flavors, most Thai menus in the U.S. are dishearteningly similar.
That's not so much the case at Burlington's new
East West Café, at the corner of North Winooski Avenue and Pearl Street. There's no pad Thai or krapow on the menu. There are tom yum, som tam and a selection of curries. But there are far simpler dishes that have the homespun feel of dining in chef Samran Kaewkoet's kitchen. Though not particularly complex, every dish is unfussy and fresh.
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Posted
By
Alice Levitt
on Tue, Aug 4, 2015 at 8:29 AM
This is my first "Alice Eats" after 12 weeks off promoting and recovering from writing my new book,
Vermont: An Explorer's Guide. I'm not telling you this to gloat or self-promote. I'm merely pointing out that I'm well rested and in a great mood.
Despite that, this is not going to be an upbeat review. I had high hopes for
St. Paul Street Gastrogrub. I've never had a bad meal at its more upscale South Burlington sister restaurant,
Wooden Spoon Bistro, so I was confident this meal would naturally follow suit. The menu was appealing. But, with little exception, the pub grub fell flat in execution.
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Posted
By
Alice Levitt
on Tue, Apr 21, 2015 at 12:12 PM
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Alice Levitt
Three ways to spice up your life
Before the arrival of Tiny Thai, most Thai-craving Vermonters were weaned on the cuisine of Art and Claire Jilandharn. In recent years, their empire has stretched from Montpelier to Waterbury, Middlebury to Burlington. That Waterbury hub, Ocha Thai Restaurant, closed in 2013. Now it's back, on the Waterbury-Stowe Road next to Stash N' Stowe smoke shop.
There's no formality to the fluorescent-lit, 18-seat spot with its lavender walls and wooden parrots hung from the ceiling. Most customers on Sunday night were picking up take-out, but we took a seat to try a sampling of the new/old restaurant's menu.
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Posted
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Alice Levitt
on Tue, Apr 14, 2015 at 1:16 PM
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Alice Levitt
El Dorado Tavern
Legend has it that the lost city of gold could be anywhere in the Americas. You just have to look for it. I discovered El Dorado deep in Jeffersonville, with the help of my GPS. It's inside the former Red Fox Alpine Lodge, a former skier's dorm, in turn repurposed from a historic church in the 1960s.
The quiet bar within still has the worn feel of après-ski ragers past. Locals might have already discovered the walls aren't gilt; we were the only diners for most of our Sunday evening meal. Still, the server seemed overwhelmed and apologetic at first.
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Posted
By
Alice Levitt
on Tue, Apr 7, 2015 at 1:42 PM
6275 Avenue Somerled, Montréal, 514-487-9559
This weekend, I fell in deep lust. Don't worry, my other half knows. In fact, he shares my feelings. The object of our affection: a Slavic market in Montréal.
One of the most overused phrases in food journalism today is "the Eataly of" to refer to a comprehensive, food-hall-style experience of a particular cuisine. But Krazy Cmak, in Montréal's Notre-Dame-de-Grâce (NDG) neighborhood, bears no resemblance to Mario Batali's famed all-encompassing Italian market. It's on the small side, but I still found lots to love. In fact, I was able to cart home several items I hadn't seen since visiting Poland in 2011. So, yes, high points for the E. Wedel chocolates, rose-petal jam and linden tea.
But what really makes Krazy Cmak stand out is the prepared food.
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Posted
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Alice Levitt
on Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 1:37 PM
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Alice Levitt
The tablecloth promises bear that the kitchen doesn't deliver.
How salt-of-the-earth is Milton's newest eatery, North Country Saloon? You actually have to drive through a trailer park to get to the parking lot. The ambience is something like this:
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Posted
By
Alice Levitt
on Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 1:32 PM
Seven Days' restaurant listings tell no lies. Of the 234 restaurants outside Burlington listed in our Chittenden County section, only two are Mexican. Add in the Queen City and you've got five. That qualifies as a serious dearth. Things appeared to be looking up back in 2011, when Corin Hirsch and I published a
survey of four new south-of-the-border eateries.
Three-and-a-half years later, only one is left standing, Burlington's El Gato Cantina. Its second location opened in the former Belted Cow Bistro space in Essex Junction last October. Since then its margaritas, ranging from the $7 house version to the $37 Don Julio's 1942 Dream, have attracted crowds eager for something more authentic than quesadillas and nachos. El Gato has those Americano classics, but also more traditional options. Do they pass Mexican muster?
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Posted
By
Alice Levitt
on Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 1:49 PM
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Alice Levitt
My kind of beer making
Tacos are a good thing. So is beer. The two made scintillating music together in Waterbury with the marriage of Blackback Pub and the Mad Taco. But when the businesses divorced last year, the beer-destination city became a whole lot less taco-tastic.
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