Drink Up: A Local Gimlet and the LXXV | Bite Club

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Drink Up: A Local Gimlet and the LXXV

Posted By on Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 5:00 AM

click to enlarge Drink Up: A Local Gimlet and the LXXV
Julia Clancy
The Barr Hill Gin Gimlet at American Flatbread, Middlebury Hearth
I live exactly 0.3 miles from American Flatbread in Middlebury. It's a five-minute stroll past Frog Hollow Alley to the creaky bridge over Otter Creek, a pathway lit by gas lamps after dark. I often find myself retreating to Flatbread's shaded back patio to share a bottle of cider, or bellied up to the wraparound wooden bar for a couple of drafts and a "Pepperoni and Peppers" to split.

I usually go to the beer list, but Middlebury Hearth's recently released summer cocktail menu has swayed my habits. Created specifically for the location by Steve Boyce, a former bartender and current Flatbread co-owner, the list of carefully crafted drinks extends the restaurant's ethos for local, sustainable, and made-in-house fare. 

click to enlarge Drink Up: A Local Gimlet and the LXXV
Julia Clancy
The LXXV cocktail at American Flatbread, Middlebury Hearth
"We make our juices and simple syrups every night before service," says bartender Skylar Atkins as he builds a Bourbon Amarena Smash ($9). That's Bulleit bourbon, wild Amarena cherries, fresh mint, squeezed lime juice, Amarena syrup and Angostura Aromatic Bitters, capped with Maine Root Ginger Beer. He places the drink next to a group of five patrons. They gush over the mason jar layered with garnet and gold, and order three more "smashes." 

The bar is busy at 5 p.m. on a Friday, but Atkins and fellow bartender Kim Franklin are chill. The party of five becomes 11. A group of Middlebury College teachers chats over pints. A couple sidles into the seats next to mine, eager for a taste of the special soup: a verdant scallion and cucumber gazpacho with pickled local shiitakes.

I order the LXXV ($9), a take on the classic French 75. Atkins strains the rose-colored cocktail into a champagne flute; instantly, it calms the heat of an 85-degree July day. Fresh-squeezed lemon juice and housemade simple syrup get a mellow bite from Campari and Lee Brothers Grapefruit Bitters. Plymouth gin and Le Colture Fagher Prosecco lend a dry, effervescent finish. It's bright and bitter, and the lighter hand on the Campari is much appreciated on a thick summer evening.

"We like to do everything locally that we can with booze," Atkins notes. There are quite a few Vermont cameos behind the bar, including Stonecutter Spirits, Caledonia Spirits, Green Mountain Distillers and Smugglers' Notch Distillery. 

I love a good gin gimlet, and this hot day has me craving standbys such as gin and lime. Atkins is happy to help: For my second drink, he builds the Barr Hill Gin Gimlet ($10) — fresh, sour and ice-cold in a coup glass. Every sip is perfectly balanced, with a zip of citrus and that dry-yet-floral quality I like in Bar Hill gin. It is the best gin gimlet I've had in a long time.

Good thing I live right around the corner. Or is it?

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Julia Clancy

Julia Clancy is a local chef and was a Seven Days food writer in 2016 and 2017.