1 Towne Marketplace, Essex Junction, 872-8188

On an April episode of Anthony Bourdain's CNN show, "Parts Unknown," artist David Choe took the chef on an unlikely trip in his native Koreatown.

The pair headed to Sizzler, where Choe, in an all-orange suit, showed off the finer points of constructing a meatball taco from the buffet offerings. "There's nowhere else in the world where you can have this," Choe explained to Bourdain.

Well, Choe may need to hop on a plane for another "nowhere else in the world" creation. Vermont, meet ABC Café & Pub's samosa. Mashed potatoes mixed with beef, peas and onions are wrapped in a Chinese wonton skin with nary a hint of curry flavor. The combination is more shepherd's pie than samosa, but just when you think you've got it figured out, there's the side of marinara sauce for dipping. Is it good? Not really, but that's beside the point.

Since Chinese native David Lee took over the former Banana Winds Café & Pub last spring, the townie bar has seen an interesting menu transformation. And according to the regulars with whom I sat during their Sunday night football pool, the food has drastically improved.

The garden is taking its last bittersweet gasps, and they come in the form of Brussels sprouts, tomatillos, broccoli, carrots, squash, and kale.

Despite its heady cachet in Vermont, I'm not a huge fan of kale, kale chips notwithstanding. Mostly I wrestle with its chewy stems and waxy, stubborn leaves. Yet, as with all worthwhile things, if you put in the effort, you can reap huge rewards. In the case of kale, those include turbo-charged nutrition and an earthy base on which to layer other autumn morsels, such as Delicata squash, apples and fresh ricotta cheese.

I modeled this salad after one I ate recently at Popolo in Bellows Falls. That night, the kale had been massaged into submission, the dressing was delicate and gently sweet, and the ricotta cheese was so fresh that it oozed all over the bowl.

3699 Woodstock Rd., White River Junction, 295-7563

Despite my most ardent efforts, there are still some places in Vermont where I haven't yet tried the barbecue. Check Route 4 Country Store, Deli & Bar-B-Que off the list.

Distance is my only excuse. The quirky spot is exactly my kind of place. Where else can I buy smoked pig ears (intended for dogs); mini bottles of both Boyden Valley Vermont Ice and ChocoVine; and ribs. The packed country store, also home to Vermont Chocolatiers, is eclecticism done right.

I only wish I could have tried even more of the barbecue offerings, but I went slightly over my $35 limit as it was, with the inclusion of drinks, sides and the unexpected cost of including sauce and veggies on the sandwiches. A warning: If, like me, you usually agree to whatever toppings your sandwich artist suggests, be aware at Route 4 that it will raise your bill.